You Will Find Without A Doubt An Isle Of Lesbos, And It Has A Great Sapphic Festival

As I stepped off of the mentor in Skala Eressos — a tiny beachside town on the Greek area of
, where Sappho Women’s Festival provides operated for the last 19 years — we rolled my personal bag past an elderly Greek guy.

With a couple of yards between you, I heard him catcall thereupon sorely frustrating pursed-lip noise that males make attain a lady’s interest. I turned about, incensed that I’d come entirely to bloody Lesbos — the ancestral home of lesbian-kind as well as the root of the term “lesbian” — and guys were still treating myself like a smaller being. I happened to be ready for struggle until We noticed the Greek guy had been bent over, hand outstretched, phoning a real pet.

This set the tone for the rest of the excursion. Skala Eressos is an urban area where ladies guideline, and in which
90 percent of visitors
tend to be lesbians. (There are plenty of men, but they are respectful and available.) I’d entered Sapphic paradise.

Through the entire two weeks of Sappho ladies Festival, queer ladies roamed around in teams, in pairs, and on their very own, carrying out chilled-out beachy situations. I’dn’t recognized exactly how much I associated beach vacations with heterosexuality until I caught a glimpse of a lesbian few ingesting supper. Of the many seaside visits I’d been in my entire life, this was the first occasion I would observed two lesbians eating collectively because they toasted the termination of the day at sundown.

Queer women happened to be every-where, and those two weeks, it really felt normal, normal. At long last, I becamen’t the only lesbian for the bistro or among three in the office; everyone was like me. At Sappho, the couple cradling for the water is actually queer, individuals checking you out tend to be lesbians, the individual welcoming you ’round for a sunset beverage is homosexual since the day is long — as will be the ladies paint from the harbor. You can find queer ladies reading tarot cards, queer bartenders moving cocktails, and a post-nap lesbian stretching like a new baby dog about coastline.

It was therefore affirming and calm to stay almost all — perhaps not for per night or an event, but also for lengthy, drawn-out blissful days. There are hundreds of us, and we also were one huge, away, deafening and pleased lesbian family.

Lesbian Observe

If you are going to Sappho and aspiring to acquire some work completed, I would damage that strategy here and today. Every beachside taverna


like a beautiful getaway work place. They’re all quintessentially Greek, with white timber and navy pillows, plus little gay flags flailing in sea breeze. They turn out Greek salads, soft natural yogurt, and freddo cappuccinos (iced lattes but better) non-stop.

Nevertheless the ability to tasks are defeated by a couple of things. Initially, the sunlight. It goes up, projects over the sky, subsequently glistens over the countless water. Because it drops, it pulls the blue through the air and turns it into a portrait of oranges, pinks, and lilacs. It is a masterpiece — and it is nearly impossible to stare at a Word document while all of this is being conducted.

Second, and slightly less profound: lesbians tend to be fascinating. They congregate for the mornings and speak to categories of buddies, both brand new and old. They discuss sets from the euphoria they hit regarding party floor last night with the silicone earplugs they purchased because their particular newly single roomie is investing in the hedonism of island life.

A lot more than this though, they discuss their particular passions, their particular jobs, and game-changing work they’re carrying out worldwide. They talk about the tasks they’ve launched from the refugee camp in Moria (an hour or two away by automobile). They discuss about it self-sustaining area live, the documentaries they will have generated, the publications they’ve released, the events they’ve curated, individuals they will have empowered, in addition to work they may be performing with CEOs to elevate the consciousness regarding organizations.

They are wise, effective women who take this planet to help make a positive change as well as on this area in order to connect with others like them. Each day, I’d gladly close my personal laptop computer and permit these exchanges clean over and encourage me.

Sappho’s Stone

Now, i understand what you are thinking: Isn’t all of this some stress-inducing? Like residing on globe L Word or being caught in slightly lesbian snow globe? All of us dykes appear to have adequate anxiousness walking into a lesbian bar within our evening finery, not to mention prancing around in a bikini surrounded by our kin.

Fortunately, the festival — as well as the Aegean water — does a good work at mellowing and leveling people away. Each and every morning at 10:30 a.m., a couple of hundred ladies swam 400 meters from the coast to Sappho’s Rock. Herded by a kayak bearing a rainbow flag, ladies of all ages (a great deal of festivalgoers are over 40 — earlier women can be absolutely where it’s at however,


) with different swimming capabilities made their unique method to the rock. Some driven in advance, although some grappled with swimming noodles; all relocated at their very own rate through easy crystalline waters.

As soon as we arrived at the stone, some women scaled to the top, but most lounged toward the base. People were using wetsuits, stylish one-pieces, mismatched bikinis, absolutely nothing, snorkels — one individual had a unicorn horn on over the woman goggles. Ladies of most shapes and sizes talked and chuckled with no preoccupations. Patriarchal judgments or standards don’t exist on Sappho’s Rock; we were simply a bunch of feamales in the perfect, basking under the sun.

While we swam straight back, a lesbian bar also known as Budda pub sat from the shore filled up with brunching on-lookers. All of a sudden familiar with a gathering, I psyched my self around exit water smoothly, but the gravel were like quicksand. I would take one step, drain down, and leap forward on all fours. It absolutely was entertaining and absurd. There seemed to ben’t an ounce of sophistication between united states as we presented one another up and plowed the solution, some also shuffling backward in flippers. We were all combined within our shore-side struggle; no one cared the way they seemed or who was evaluating them.


We tended not to see some of the stone club females for the rest of the afternoon. I appreciated spending my personal times alone, functioning (


, eavesdropping on power dykes) in cafés, enjoying Greek women cackling hysterically during a day plunge, wandering across the coastline, opting for lengthy treks, and having massages in the community. Occasionally I played during the lesbian volleyball tournament, went along to panel discussions, saw a tug-of-war competition, sat in friends reflection, took an author’s workshop (with acclaimed writer Diana Souhami), or visited yoga with Natasha (who is a really skilled yogi. People that’d already been practicing for 3 decades said they’d never ever experienced an instructor like this lady, so that as I viewed a brittle, much-older woman started to class each day and saw how she appeared to evolve, elevate, and lighten after each and every period, we understood this to be true).

However’d grab a gyro for several euros, take a seat on a counter, and see the sunset. Three elderly ladies would take a seat on a neighboring table, having to pay honor toward view while feverishly talking about circumstances in Greek.

Energy performed peculiar situations in Lesbos. The days folded by effortlessly, but by the point I left, it felt like I’d spent seven decades thereon island. Though we commercially did thus little, it felt like I’d done so a great deal. I made these types of powerful associations and had these crucial cross-generational, cross-national conversations concerning patriarchy, queerness, and womanhood. It decided the place had been carrying it out personally — all I had to complete ended up being take a seat on a bench and eat falafel.

After night emerged, movie stars erupted throughout the cloudless air, and that is if it was time for you reunite because of the women I’d swam with this day.


We write about night life for a living, but i have never ever experienced everything I performed in the dance-floors of Skala. Every night, the three beachside lesbian taverns (Flamingo, Belle Ville, Budda Bar) erupted into hives of elegant electricity. An excellent line-up of DJs (RPXX, Ritu, Chroma, Bo Monde, Wendy, Promiss, Brenda, Nicky Drummond) played mixes I would seldom heard, weaving with each other different decades of music, comprising genres from disco to trance. Whilst, the ocean lapped and crashed against the shore, incorporating another covering towards the beat.

Usually, a little selection of females began moving around the decks, subsequently a few a lot more joined, and some more after that up until the beat enveloped the space like a flowering rose. There was no bother about getting a beneficial dancer or perhaps not, since there was no view — just individuals loosening right up, feeling every defeat, and drifting in independence of body-mind. This liberation produced a force-field. We were impenetrable. There have been individuals all around, dudes who’d arrive at enjoy the lesbians party, but they cannot enter all of our room, the ambiance, the euphoria. Every evening, individuals had gotten much more connected, dance moves became bolder, and inhibitions became a distant storage. Females took up area thereon dance-floor like I would not witnessed before.

Its well worth keeping in mind there had been no celebration medicines during the festival. Folks definitely appreciated to drink, plus some liked a spliff, a coffee or a container . In just this, everyone was walking on in a euphoric, increased state. The 70-year-old lady I swam to Sappho’s stone with this day ended up being ripping it up on the dance-floor at 2:30 a.m. At 3 a.m., she endured with the rest folks, irritation for an after-party as if we might been swallowing drugs forever.

To close off certainly their own units, DJ Bo Monde and DJ Promiss played “No origins” by Alice Merton  (combined correctly with Faithless’ sleeplessness). Due to the fact track unfolded, I stopped and appeared around. I watched as ladies throughout worldwide danced with each other. Ladies who’ve got kiddies, been discharged, already been straight, been nomadic, been younger, already been lost, already been closeted, already been married. Ladies who’ve observed so many people, visited numerous spots. And happened to be every here after that, dancing on terms, “I’ve got no roots, but my residence was actually never ever on a lawn.” We understood, in this moment, that this magical destination is where the wild ladies arrive at discover their sources.

Women’s Space

Collectively collective of men and women, there are specific folks who should not end up being a harmonious the main class. At Sappho, there are a tiny a small number of those who could not honor trans people and exactly who problematized all guys. There were occasions when the power from inside the club was actually so high — individuals were attaining these delight — but still, somebody believed the need to disregard this and make a spectacle of someone who’d had top surgical procedure or select a fight with a person seated peacefully on a stool drinking an after-work beer. They spoke as though we weren’t


queer, and as if replacing patriarchal oppression with matriarchal oppression would resolve everything.

Nevertheless these individuals were most definitely within the fraction. The collective offered small fat to them. Sappho’s organizers tend to be trans-inclusive, and that I made friends with trans ladies who’ve already been visiting the event for over 10 years.

Once the events drew to an in depth a short while before sunrise, the music switched off while the just sound was actually the ocean surging on the shore. I’d embraced my personal dance-floor pals and headed to my personal apartment, a two-minute disappear. Everybody at Sappho remains in accommodations, apartments, or tents close to the beach or maybe more up towards town. We were all near — within walking distance together. A residential area, but not claustrophobically very. We’d spend the nights as you in the dance-floor, subsequently spend all of our times by yourself, recharging the night’s unavoidable frivolities.

In addition to night life, the event had an entire program of activity, from lesbian movie tests to opera activities courtesy of the English nationwide Opera’s Nadine Benjamin (my words wont suffice, so tune in to
). There was also the Alternative Fashion program, Drag Kings of Eressos, and real time music through the likes of S.W.I.M, and Rainbow women (a Californian band with razor sharp wit, feminist politics and vocals). After that, for all prepared, it was time to return to the dance-floor.

Really Love

The ambiguity between friendships and romantic interactions is actually an extremely vital part of Sappho Women’s Festival and an extremely good knowledge for lesbians, within my modest opinion. Frequently, mathematically, you’ll findn’t a lot of queer ladies available for you to want and flirt with. From the event, you will be keen on someone in the morning, another that mid-day, and another person from the dance-floor that evening. The next thing you know, you’ve been in the island for two days, you have got seven crushes, and now they truly are all hanging out in the same bar.

Everybody dabbles in polyamory (wittingly or not) at Sappho. The lady you fell deeply in love with on first-night is currently shacking with your own neighbor. The person you went paddle-boarding within the afternoon is currently moving making use of individual you have been flirting with considering that the coach experience in. The person you slept with yesterday has a romantic-looking beverage with the girl exactly who keeps letting you know she is residing in area 8. By some wonder, this is not demanding; people are going with the circulation. Openness, discussion, and honesty are foundational to and unavoidable, because let’s end up being real, island lesbians like news. You need to be truthful regarding the hot girl summer so that you can prevent jealousies and insecurities from flaring up and avoiding situations from obtaining messy. The event inadvertently doubles up as a training ground for lesbian polyamorous society living — or even that is simply wishful considering on my part.


Making ended up being tough — very hard. We knew as soon as I settled because I wouldnot need commit. In the completion Saturday, I viewed ladies throughout the entire world accept one another with these strength. We might experienced such together. I viewed fans prised apart, friendships (actually) split up, drinking friends, yoga pals, neighbors — these lifelong associations made rapidly, plucked apart for another eleven several months.

I felt like a kitten who’d already been grabbed by the scruff associated with neck, put in a basket, and removed from my folks, my personal place, my Sapphic paradise. We almost cried while you’re watching a small grouping of Israelis state goodbye before someone emerged in my experience to express: “They’re going to see each other on Monday.”

As I stood in Mytilene Airport wanting to know the way I’d readjust alive from the this lesbian utopia, we consoled myself together with the information that I’d be back the coming year and each year then. I realized I would evolved into a better lesbian: a far more powerful one who’s a lot more in contact with my personal womanhood and my queerness, enriched by wisdom, encounters, and ideas of my personal parents. With my head conducted large and arms pushed right back (granted, that may be all pilates), I became ready to float back again to world while making it a less patriarchal, much more harmonious, aware, queerer place. We travelled from that area, a beaming look to my face, Sapphic miracle surging through my personal spine.

Sappho Ladies’ Festival, September 5th-19th 2020,

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